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Like most adventure sports, water skiing has its fair share of dangers. These can be avoided if you are careful. You should always wear a safety jacket when you are water skiing, just in case you lose your balance and fall into the water. Because you wear a safety jacket also means that you do not have to be the best swimmer in the world to participate in this sport. Your jacket should be able to keep you afloat until you are rescued.
Dangers from water skiing are varied and wide. For example, you would not go water skiing in waters that you know are full of sharks, now would you?
You would not have the same sort of dangers associated with water skiing on rivers or lakes that you would have water skiing on the seas.
A scene from Jaws showing a water skier being attacked by sharks may not have done a lot for the sport of water skiing, but sharks are not the one and only danger that can affect water skiers. Submerged ships and cargo close to the surface, or even hidden rocks are another danger.
However most of the time water skiing is performed on stretches of water that are familiar to the skier, so they know the water well. There is only a danger should the skier attempt to ski on stretches of unfamiliar water, and unfortunately these dangers can become all too real.
Everybody that water skis will fall off and crash into the water at some time. It does not matter how experienced you are.
Because water skiing is performed at such a fast pace, it is inevitable that people will lose control and fall into the water. Just be aware that falling into the water at such speeds could have fatal implications due to the body hitting water at such speeds.
It is always advisable to ski in groups or with qualified and experienced people. This way if any accident did occur whilst you are out on the water, then at least you have somebody to assist you. Always follow all safety measures that are in place, and always wear the correct equipment before you start your skiing experience.
Do you think often think about sports? Are you adventurous enough to take the risks in your life? Then you must be familiar with GT Mountain Bikes already. These bikes are manufactured by one of the largest American manufacturer of bicycles, GT Bicycles.
GT Bicycles do not only produce one type of mountain bikes. These can be available in six types that can be used in different fields that match the excitement of each rider. When you want to have a smooth ride, then you can purchase the free ride or DH type from this company. Its parts are made of aluminium that are very strong and can carry you wherever you want to go.
All mountain type of GT Bicycles is perfect for individuals who wanted to try driving down the rugged hill sections of the mountain that requires leg busting climbs. It is made perfect for them since the materials used are lightweight and can be one of the fastest climbing bikes.
There are also people who are athletic and competitive individuals who want to race against other athletics. The perfect type for them is the trail or marathon kind of bikes. It is the most durable type that allows the player to finish the trail form beginning to end. Pedalling is efficient and a faster speed is achieved due to the high quality materials used. A racer would always need a light weight to make them conserve their energy and of course a long haul durability to let them win the race.
Another type of GT mountain bikes that can be use as an alternative for racers is the Race XC. It has a rocket-like acceleration and is also made from lightweight materials. A very good example under this category is the Zaskar Carbon Team XX that has a monocoque carbon frame and force optimized equipment.
Recreational XC is perfect for weekend adventures for its strong aluminum frames that can walk along dirty and muddy mountains. Unwind every weekend using this bike to enjoy the beautiful nature scenes.
Are you are looking for another type of an adventurous trail bike that can provide maximum comfort? Then you need to have the Dirt Jump type of bike that has the toughest tube sets, beefiest forks and made from park-proven components.
Do you want to purchase a mountain bike for yourself or for your loved ones? Then start taking your pick from the six types of GT mountain bikes mentioned above.
==>>Click here to see latest GT Mountain Bikes Information, Reviews, and Price Information. You should also check out Dirt Bike Helmets for Safety.
My brother and his Grandson hit the back roads every afternoon they can sneak away for a little fun and recreation on their ATVs. In back of my brother's house is an old railway bed that runs for miles. Tracks are long gone and bed is pretty overgrown, but is still a viable riding road. My Brother says it is a great starting place for ATV Riders in the area.
The bed follows the winding valley and the hilly terrain. Only now can you start to see what the men working to lay these tracks back in the 1920's faced with picks and shovels. The earth is packed with hard red clay and iron ore. Bits and pieces of it fly up and hit you as you ride when the dry hot summers set in. In the spring the mud from rain runoff soaks the clay and you find yourself digging out your tires more than you are riding. It was one such afternoon when I ventured out with them.
My brother had been trying to coax me to go out with them for sometime. Now I am a dyed in the wool motorcycle, 2 wheeler .I like the long stretches of highway and the wind rippling through your shirt. I like the power of the machine as it glides in and out of traffic. I enjoy the companionship of my fellow riders, whether I am riding with them or just standing around and talking. I love the Poker Runs, the rallies, and most of all, the absolute joy of girl and machine against the world. I know a lot of guys and girls who love their ATV feel the same way I do about the motorcycle. A few of them also may truly believe that riding on the highways is pure sissy stuff! One of those people is my brother. So... I convinced myself I'd go and see what all the hoopla was all about.
Riding behind my brother, I thought I was doing great. After all he caught all the branches and swiped them out of my way. The bugs were just beginning to hatch out this late spring day and flew around us with a constant buzz. At least with helmets on they were not in our nose, eyes and hair. Of course that all changed when we hit the mud bath.
I want to go out on a limb here and make a statement for which I am probably going to get beat over the head for. Being a girl, I am squeamish about mud. You won't me catch me at a spa paying for the stuff to be rubbed in my skin or anywhere else. Mud makes me think of snakes, bugs and God knows what other creepy crawly thing that loves mud. No telling what has been there and is still in it.
The mud bath was a dip in the railway bed, which had at one time hosted a railway bridge for the train to go over. Old Cross ties still hovered around, and parts of the bridge structure were still visible. As a rule the dip was just a little fun jump on the ATV. This time it had filled with rainwater and looked like a small creek. We jumped right in the middle of the darn thing.
The machine sat there sinking. My brother raised his helmet to talk to me. I raised mine. Both of us got a mouth full of lovebugs that apparently love mud, In just minutes I felt like a bug. They were in my nostrils and felt like they were trying to climb in my brain. Lowering the helmet shield didn't help. I now had a head full of bugs inside with me. One thing we knew for sure was we had to get off to stop some of the sinking.
With both of us off the machine we could stand in the mud bath, which I guess is some consolation. It could have been deep. That would have been really bad, seeing as I can't swim. My new leather chaps and leather jacket were weighted down with mud and grime. I was so mad I would have kicked the tires if they hadn't been buried in about 12 inches of red mud. My brother, who is a much better sport than me, seemed to take all of this in stride with a grin which made me even madder. I was pretty sure he had planned the whole thing. Later I recounted that thought when I saw how hard he worked to dig us out.
My job was to haul in some rocks to fill in the mud holes he was making around each tire to keep the mud from oozing right back. After about an hour of this futile effort, he sent his grandson to get his wife and the truck to pull us out. I now had ruined gloves to go with my mud-caked chaps, jacket and jeans. Good thing is we sell leather riding gear on line www.agelessparlor.com and I was pretty sure I could talk Jerry, my husband into giving me a discount on on new pair.
.By that time help arrived it was dark. Night creatures had come out. I am and have always been afraid of the dark. Who knows what ghouls the dark covers. The woods had looked so pretty in the light of the day with their new blooms and leaves. Now they had become a place of deep shadows and sounds. My brother, who knows what a scaredy cat I am, I suspect, was thoroughly enjoying my discomfort. He kept up a constant chatter about the old grave yard we had passed about a mile back. He had all kinds of ghost sightings to share with me. I kept moving the mud around with my foot just to make sure it was still deep enough to hide me if needed. Hey,I watch TV, it worked in Terminator for Arnold.
Rescue arrived none too soon. Chains were brought out, hooked to the back of the ATV and the back of the truck. The trick was to get the thing out without pulling the truck in the slippery bed. Slowly and surely my brother worked the gears. After a good bit of grinding and swearing it began to move. The front of the ATV was buried up to its neck, so to say, and when it came out reminded me of a Swamp monster on one of those old black and white sci fic shows, It was covered in mud and smelled really bad.
Mud dripped and ooze from every inch. I wondered if it would ever crank again. If they were naming a movie from the looks of my brother and me, they would call it "Mar's Creatures of the Red Swamp" With our helmets still on, covered in red mud, sweat and blood, we looked pretty fearsome ourselves.
My brother loves to tell this story. Looking back, it looks and sounds like a fun adventure. Living it was something else. I am glad we had on good full face helmets. For His birthday I had sent him a new Full Face Modular from the helmet shop. www.helmetsforfun.com He normally wore a motocross helmet and while we sell them, I wanted him to have what I consider the best protection for his head.
Our Modular Full Face motorcycle helmets come ready to fit for microphones. If you have a regular back rider, mikes are nice. The face shield opens or the whole helmet raises up. Inside the padding is thick and can be removed and washed, which with regular mud riding needs to a priority. The helmets are DOT approved which is always a plus to me.
If you are not riding with a helmet on your ATV, rethink that. The next branch you do not dodge low enough, the next gravel hill you slide through and over, the next roadway you are riding on with cars, the next accident is just waiting. Be prepared.
You can view our MX or Full face helmets at http://www.helmetsforfun.com We have some great ones. As far as my ATV riding, I am going to leave it to you. To be honest if I want mud under my nails for a month I will just dig in the garden on the next rainy days. You guys and girls go on and have fun. I'll wait on the stories.
Jerry and Judy Morgan owners of Ageless Parlor Leather Company. (APLC) Family owned and family operated. We sell on line at www.agelessparlor.com
www,agelessleather.com
www.helmetsforfun.com
We have been selling Motorcycle riding Gear including helmets, leather jackets, chaps, vests and accessories on the Web and eBay for 11 years. We like to think we have some experience to help our motorcycle riders clients find good fitting leather clothing at reasonable prices. We work hard to get to know you and your motorcycle gear needs.
If you possess a liking for off-road racing, you should be unquestionably looking into the motley of neck braces and other motocross accessories from Leatt. They possess a precise collection that is designed to provide majestic quality protection, which is required in this sport. Otherwise, you will end up with fatal hurts and bad falls. Leatt's neck braces like the Leatt Adventure neck brace restricts the rider from making a range of terrific motions but leaves adequate coverage for any form of critical harm. All you need is five minutes to experience used to wearing the neck brace, and after that, the rider senses amenable and exposed with them them off. The braces from Leatt work with all safety and seat belt constellations, and it will also maintain the safety harness in place specially during an impact. It conforms and complies with all safety criteria and is SFI 38.1 certified. So when we say Security is not Completed without them, then are confident for telling you the truth.
Protecting the Neck Up
There is a Leatt Adventure neck brace specifically intended for the racers with a small and thin build, in particular in the age bracket 4 - 16 years old. There is also a peculiar one for those with an average build with a maximum weight of 235 pounds, in particular racers who are 16 years old and above. These neck braces have got been interjected with glass reinforced nylon that is contrived by medical professionals specifically for motorcycle fanciers. It broadly speaking protects the head and the neck from hyperflexion, hyperextension, lateral hyperflexion, posterior hypertranslation, and axial loading. It controls head deceleration that may stimulate traumatic injury to the brain. It also influences other in-car head movements after obtaining multiplex shocks such as during rollovers. These high-end elaborate neck braces have got GP and X straps which assure the rider in place and allow a higher grade of protection.
The Braces for the Masses
There are argues why Leatt-Brace Moto GPX Club made up one's mind to consume a model neck security device for all mass motocross and off-road racers. There followed a require for a more affordable neck protective gear, and so Leatt made a model device that will specifically provide to the market of off-road riders. Leatt Adventure neck brace was then ushered in. It was produced specifically for the mass market and for the touring and the commuting market. To meet the price, it has been contained and it is non-adjustable in the front but with a solid form structure on the rear. It applied akin designing and biomechanical use with other Moto GPX braces and will also render easing from neck tire.
You will discover all motocross apparel, supercross gear, and other off-road sports apparel at Bob's Cycle Supply. They have got all varieties of protective gears like the Leatt Adventure neck brace. Their online store offers over 26,000 items which is also offered up in their catalog. They consume all of these items from illustrious producers. You do not consume to look anywhere else because you will surely find what you'll necessitate at Bob's Cycle Supply.
If you have a liking for off-road racing, you should be unquestionably anticipating into the assortment of neck braces and other motocross supplements from Leatt. They have a adequate collection that is fashioned to offer higher quality protection, which is needed in this sport. Otherwise, you will end up with ill-fated hurts and bad falls. Leatt's neck braces like the Leatt Adventure neck brace confines the rider from exercising a ambit of far-flung movements but throws comfortable coverage for any form of crucial damage. All you necessitate is five minutes to realize used to wearing the neck brace, and after that, the rider senses vulnerable and bare with them them off. The braces from Leatt work with all safety and seat belt forms, and it will also maintain the safety harness in place particularly during an shock. It adapts and complies with all safety criteria and is SFI 38.1 certified. So when we say Protective Covering is not Perfect without them, then are convinced for telling you the truth.
Protecting the Neck Up
There is a Leatt Adventure neck brace specifically designated for the racers with a small and thin build, particularly in the age bracket 4 - 16 years old. There is also a unique one for those with an average build with a maximum weight of 235 pounds, in particular racers who are 16 years old and above. These neck braces consume been interjected with glass reinforced nylon that is projected by medical professionals specifically for motorcycle fanciers. It generally protects the head and the neck from hyperflexion, hyperextension, lateral hyperflexion, posterior hypertranslation, and axial loading. It controls head deceleration that may induce traumatic hurt to the brain. It also influences other in-car head motions after receiving multiplex impingements such as during rollovers. These high-end thorough neck braces possess GP and X straps which procure the rider in place and offer a higher degree of security.
The Braces for the Masses
There are causes why Leatt-Brace Moto GPX Club resolved to carry a model neck security device for all mass motocross and off-road racers. There came a require for a more inexpensive neck protective gear, and so Leatt made a model device that will specifically ply to the market of off-road riders. Leatt Adventure neck brace was then presented. It was made specifically for the mass market and for the touring and the commuting market. To meet the cost, it has been contained and it is non-adjustable in the front but with a solid skeletal frame construction on the rear. It used alike design and biomechanical use with other Moto GPX braces and will also establish rest from neck weariness.
You will find all motocross apparel, supercross gear, and other off-road sports apparel at Bob's Cycle Supply. They have got all varieties of protective gears like the Leatt Adventure neck brace. Their online store volunteers over 26,000 items which is also proposed in their catalog. They possess all of these items from notable makers. You do not consume to look anywhere else because you will for sure get what you'll require at Bob's Cycle Supply.
Leatt Adventure Neck Brace: Protection Isn't Immaculate Without One
Leatt's Collection
If you bear a caring for off-road racing, you should be definitely searching into the variety of neck braces and other motocross accessories from Leatt. They carry a deluxe collection that is designed to supply elated quality protection, which is needful in this sport. Otherwise, you will end up with fatal injuries and bad falls. Leatt's neck braces like the Leatt Adventure neck brace confines the rider from exercising a range of overwhelming moves but leaves enough coverage for any sort of severe damage. All you necessitate is five minutes to realize used to wearing the neck brace, and after that, the rider senses open and bare with them them off. The braces from Leatt work with all safety and seat belt contours, and it will also retain the safety harness in place specially during an shock. It adjusts and follows with all safety touchstones and is SFI 38.1 certified. So when we say Protective Cover is not Complete without them, then are detailed for telling you the truth.
Protecting the Neck Up
There is a Leatt Adventure neck brace specifically intended for the racers with a small and thin build, particularly in the age bracket 4 - 16 years old. There is also a dissimilar one for those with an average build with a maximum weight of 235 pounds, specially racers who are 16 years old and above. These neck braces carry been interjected with glass reinforced nylon that is contrived by medical professionals specifically for motorcycle enthusiasts. It in general protects the head and the neck from hyperflexion, hyperextension, lateral hyperflexion, posterior hypertranslation, and axial loading. It holdscurbs head deceleration that may stimulate sensitive trauma to the brain. It also regulates other in-car head movements after incurring multiple impacts such as during rollovers. These high-end detailed neck braces have got GP and X straps which assure the rider in place and render a higher degree of protective cover.
The Braces for the Masses
There are concludes why Leatt-Brace Moto GPX Club resolved to have a model neck security device for all mass motocross and off-road racers. There arrived a postulate for a more cheap neck protective gear, and so Leatt made a model device that will specifically supply to the market of off-road riders. Leatt Adventure neck brace was then presented. It was produced specifically for the mass market and for the touring and the commuting market. To cope with the monetary value, it has been contained and it is non-adjustable in the front but with a solid frame structure on the rear. It used akin conception and biomechanical function with other Moto GPX braces and will also establish relief from neck tire.
You will discover all motocross apparel, supercross gear, and other off-road sports apparel at Bob's Cycle Supply. They carry all sorts of protective gears like the Leatt Adventure neck brace. Their online store provides over 26,000 items which is also proposed in their catalog. They have all of these items from renowned makers. You do not have to look anywhere else because you will certainly find out what you'll require at Bob's Cycle Supply.
If you have a caring for off-road racing, you should be by all odds searching into the assortment of neck braces and other motocross supplements from Leatt. They carry a deluxe collection that is fashioned to provide elated quality protection, which is needful in this sport. Otherwise, you will end up with lethal hurts and bad falls. Leatt's neck braces like the Leatt Adventure neck brace curtails the rider from performing a array of far-flung moves but leaves plenty coverage for any sort of grave damage. All you necessitate is five minutes to realize used to wearing the neck brace, and after that, the rider senses vulnerable and exposed with them them off. The braces from Leatt work with all safety and seat belt configurations, and it will also sustain the safety harness in place specially during an impingement. It adapts and follows with all safety criteria and is SFI 38.1 certified. So when we say Protection is not Perfect without them, then are definite for telling you the truth.
Protecting the Neck Up
There is a Leatt Adventure neck brace specifically signified for the racers with a small and thin build, particularly in the age bracket 4 - 16 years old. There is also a different one for those with an average build with a maximum weight of 235 pounds, specially racers who are 16 years old and above. These neck braces bear been interjected with glass reinforced nylon that is projected by medical professionals specifically for motorcycle fanciers. It in general protects the head and the neck from hyperflexion, hyperextension, lateral hyperflexion, posterior hypertranslation, and axial loading. It holdscurbs head deceleration that may make sensitive injury to the brain. It also molds other in-car head motions after incurring multiple shocks such as during rollovers. These high-end elaborated neck braces have GP and X straps which ensure the rider in place and render a utmost degree of protective cover.
The Braces for the Masses
There are grounds why Leatt-Brace Moto GPX Club decided to bear a model neck security device for all mass motocross and off-road racers. There followed a require for a more low-cost neck protective gear, and so Leatt made a model device that will specifically supply to the market of off-road riders. Leatt Adventure neck brace was then introduced. It was made specifically for the mass market and for the touring and the commuting market. To match the monetary value, it has been contained and it is non-adjustable in the front but with a solid chassis construction on the rear. It applied akin figure and biomechanical function with other Moto GPX braces and will also impart easement from neck weariness.
You will ensure all motocross apparel, supercross gear, and other off-road sports apparel at Bob's Cycle Supply. They consume all varieties of protective gears like the Leatt Adventure neck brace. Their online store offers over 26,000 items which is also offered in their catalog. They bear all of these items from identified producers. You do not have got to look anywhere else because you will for sure find out what you'll want at Bob's Cycle Supply.
On the pampas the horizons seem to flee. The llamas are golden, the clouds impossibly white. We let the bikes run. Suddenly, the view changes. The lead bike rises above the line of the horizon, a rider flails through the air 10 feet above the ground. This is not good. Jeff has gone off the road at 70 mph. Katie goes into paramedic mode, calming Jeff, running her hands up his spine, probing, checking ribs, legs, arms. The fall has ripped his touring jacket from shoulder to waist, peeling the back protector to reveal the We-Build-Bridges T-shirt. He is scuffed, but within moments is giggling, flashing the “I Can’t Believe I’m Still Alive” grin that is his default expression.
Ryan pulls the bike up and starts collecting the bits scattered across the desert. The luggage is destroyed. The right handlebar is bent almost to the tank. Mirrors, turn signals, front fender snapped off in a microsecond. Both wheel rims have dents. Incredibly, it still runs. He puts the parts that still work back on the bike, takes it for a test ride. It will last another 7,000 miles. Our motto: We Will Make This Work.
Jeff tells what happened. A small bird had hopped into his path. The next thing he knew he was off the road, launched into a culvert. “I thought, wow. I’m Superman. Oh look, there’s the bike. Oh look, there’s the bird…” In a field strewn with jagged boulders, he had landed on sand.
THE BEGINNING
The trip came up long before I was ready. A phone call, an invitation to tag along with a group of BMW riders embarking on a five-week, 8,000-mile journey from Peru to Virginia. I would document the ride, a fundraising effort for a group that builds footbridges in remote areas of the world. I’d been thinking about a long ride, something open-ended, without support vehicles, the experience of being totally “out there.” This seemed to fit the bill. A third of the distance around the world with complete strangers. I had a brand-new BMW F 800 GS and it was thirsty. If there was a point of no return, I crossed it before I hung up the phone.
First, the riders. Ken Hodge is an insurance benefits specialist and member in good standing of the Newport News Rotary Club. He discovered motorcycles late in life, when he bought a bike, rode it across country in 48 hours, then began to dream of a bigger adventure, something for a good cause.
He recruited his daughter Katie (a fire department paramedic), his stepson Ryan (a mechanic and dirt-bike rider) and Ryan’s best friend Jeff. I’m impressed by their preparations. They ride old BMW R 1150s and F 650 singles. Ryan had spent a year renewing the bikes, poking about the inner recesses, memorizing the shop manuals for each machine. They would bring enough tools and parts to handle almost every emergency.
INTO THE ANDES
We stop at Nazca to view the ancient figures scratched in the rocky desert. From the top of a tower we can see a figure with raised hands. Just to the north, the Pan-American Highway bisects the figure of a lizard, decapitating the creature. Bound by the tight focus of brass transit levels, the surveyors who laid out the road were not even aware of the sacred relics, discovered when aerial flight became common.
I realize that we are as blinded by focus, by concentration as the surveyors were by their instrument. The trip will be a series of images, sidelong glances, captured at speed.
Descendants of the people who built the Inca trail, Peruvian builders know their stuff. But it’s the tracery, the managed flow of momentum, that has our respect. The road ascends ancient seabeds, hills covered with talus, fractured dry ridges with cornices sculpted by landslides. Midday, we find ourselves on a high pampas inhabited by thousands of vicuña and alpaca. In the distance, our first sight of snowcapped peaks. There are stone corrals on nearby slopes, one-room huts. In the middle of this giant nowhere, a lone shepherd walking on the side of the hill.
We discover that the distances on maps are those of the condor. We travel incredibly twisted roads that sometimes take a hundred turns (and several miles) to get from one ridge to the next. The map indicates towns, but to our dis-may not all have gas stations. We buy gas in a small outpost from a woman who ladles it out of a bucket with a coffee pot, then pours it through a plastic, woven kitchen funnel into our tanks. The whole town watches. We push on into the descending night. We make it to the next set of lights, 20 or so buildings on two streets, find a hotel, and park our bikes in an enclosed backyard with dogs, chickens, dead birds, plastic bottles and an animal hide tanning on the wall. Instead of the usual exit signs, the restaurant in our hotel has green arrows that say “ESCAPE.” It is not a criticism of the food. The forces that drive the Andes skyward have been known to demolish whole towns.
The next morning we fire up the bikes, and ascend into the Andes on a perfect road. We are fluid, going through hairpins, double hairpins, squared-off turns—climbing the flank of a single 4,700-meter peak. I can think of only one word: delicious. We move through mist and low-hanging clouds, with shafts of sunlight slanting into rainbows. The valleys below are green and fertile, a mix of old Inca terracing and more modern farms. Slender eucalyptus trees line the road, providing shade for huts with red tile roofs. A girl tends a flock of goats (identified with colorful ribbons) on a green meadow, book in hand. At one point I think the clouds above have parted to reveal patches of blue, but when I look up I see that it is snow-covered rock, another 3,000 or 4,000 feet of mountain. On a turnoff near the top of the peak we find a dozen or so tiny shrines, little churches decorated with flowers and ribbons and photographs of loved ones. The site of a bus plunge. On a hillside across the valley paragliders work the thermals, the canopies looking like bright-colored eyebrows, or ostentatious angels.
We share the road with vicuña, alpaca, llama, sheep, goats, dogs, roosters, pigs, horses and cows. On a narrow lane near Abancay, a bull tries to gore me as I pass, charging and making a hooking motion with its horns. One night after the sunset, I round a corner and a beautiful roan stallion wheels in the light from our bikes, filling the lane with wide eyes and flashing hoofs, inches from my head. I realize that riding sweep poses a risk. The novelty of our passing bikes wears off, and the local wildlife has time to react.
Entering Cusco, Ryan asks directions, a girl directs us onto a narrow cobblestone street, slick with rain, as steep as a bobsled run. The rocks are turned on their side, like teeth. The knobbies have no traction whatsoever. The people on the sidewalks frantically wave their hands, indicating that the road gets steeper. I touch my brake and the bike goes down, pinning my leg against the curb, a quarter of an inch shy of a fracture. The bike behind me goes down. It is harrowing. The locals help us lift the bikes, get them turned uphill. A police escort leads us to a hotel that lets us store the motorcycles in the lobby. Without bothering to shower, we make our way to the Norton Rats Bar on the northeast corner of the central plaza. The owner, an American expatriate, once piloted a Norton to the tip of the continent. The walls are lined with photos from the trip. Above the bar are mounted heads, the four past American presidents, with their best known soundbites: I am not a crook. I did not inhale. I do not recall. We will find WMD in Iraq. We sip beers, trade stories, trying to reassemble the past few days. The dead battery. The punctured radiator. The roadside repairs. The incredible rush of unrelenting beauty.
Three days of desert north of Lima generate a few details. The total absence of life, the three colors of sand. Young boys pedaling tricycle ice cream carts in the middle of nowhere. We enter a <I>zona de nimbleras</I>, but instead of fog we find a 60-mph crosswind that sends a layer of grit skittering across the road like a special effect in a Steven Spielberg movie. Two lanes narrow to one covered by blowing sand, thick enough to swallow the front tire, deep enough that a road grader prepares to clear the drifting sands.
We decide to try a secondary route through the hills. We turn onto a dirt road and everything changes. We pass through villages alive with people, dogs, tiny three-wheel taxis fashioned from old motorcycles. Kids on motorscooters ride past, snapping pictures with their cell phones. The road throws split-finger fastballs at the bash plate that clang as loud and adamant as the sound of an aluminum bat. We slosh our way through gravel, gray dust on everything, parts falling off, teeth rattling. Oh yes, this is what we wanted.
ECUADOR
In Macara, we sit on the sidewalk near a minor town square, eating pork cooked by a rotund woman in a yellow dress. Her daughter brings us three beers (giant) at a time, and keeps the empties in a milk crate for accounting later. Boys on motorbikes cruise the quiet streets, the lucky ones with girls on the back. Across the square, girls sit on benches. Jeff experiences a cultural revelation, that South American girls have breasts, and wear tight pants…and “Hey, I think she likes me.”
Our dinner companion is David McCollum, an American expatriate that Ryan had met on ADVrider.com. He tells us stories about riding the Ecuadoran Andes, and gives us tips on handling roadblocks. “Act Stupid. Do not try to communicate in Spanish. Say ‘No fumar Espanol’ (I don’t smoke Spanish). If all else fails, have Katie cry.” Er, Katie does not do “cry.” The next day he leads us into the Ecuadoran Andes.
Impressions: Razor-sharp ridges. Lumpy, conical outcroppings. Monasteries on top of hills. Slopes so steep they will never be worked by machine. A couple standing above dark earth, the man holding a wooden hoe, the woman a bag of seeds. A woman on horseback, black and red cape, a whip coiled in one hand. Trees. Cloud. Mist. The feel of a Japanese block print, the ones that suggest the road goes to infinity.
I had introduced the group to a family tradition. When we travel, we end each day by recounting high point, low point and funny bone. After this day, I will add “Pucker moments.” Trucks hurtle out of the fog, running without lights, signaled only by the ghostly wave pushed before. They appear in our lane without warning or reason. We go through construction sites where the road narrows to one lane that offers no escape route. One side seems hideously close to the new concrete, studded with rebar fangs. The other side is precipice. Pucker moments? Take your pick. Sometimes it’s the surface, a half mile of muddy bobsled run, of loose gravel, of gushing water, the bike handling like a loose bowel. Twice, we round a corner and find no road, the surface having caved in, sucked away by underground torrents. Katie’s moment comes when a cow, with no footing, scrambles into the path of her bike. For Jeff, it is passing a truck that suddenly swerves to avoid a pothole, the trailer swinging toward him like a baseball bat.
We spend two days in Cuenca, a 500-year-old city surrounded by mountains. Ken phones ahead and discovers that the ship that was to have taken us and the bikes from Ecuador to Panama doesn’t exist (had we had drugs or been illegal aliens, no problem, but there are no accommodations for <I>turistas</I> with motorcycles). We ask David for help. While we ride to Quito, he will work the phones. He finds a contact, a guy known for getting things done when no one else can. We meet up with this air freight magician at The Turtle’s Head, a biker bar in Quito. At midnight.
The next morning we ride our bikes to the military section of the airport, then into a refrigerated warehouse. The steel floor is covered with embedded ball bearings, across which slide steel palettes. For the next three hours we wrestle with tiedowns. A skinny man dressed entirely in black oversees the operation, taking pictures of the bikes with a digital camera, making sure batteries are disconnected, tires are deflated. Drug-sniffing dogs poke their noses into every recess.
Then, just like that, our bikes are gone, on their way to Panama in the belly of an airplane.
CENTRAL AMERICA
Central American countries are the size of postage stamps. You can cross them in a day and a half, only to spend a half day at customs and immigration. Ken had prepared Xerox copies of all our documents (passports, licenses, titles, registration, VIN numbers) and had them notarized. As he works with the official in the air-conditioned office, we sit in 100-degree heat and watch ants carry grains of dirt from beneath the ground. We will become used to the demands for more copies, the freelance currency traders waving bills in front of our faces, the young hustlers willing to facilitate the process, the food vendors waiting for starvation to overcome caution about local cuisine.
Before embarking on this trip, I’d read State Department travel advisories. The section on Peru warned that five Americans had died from liposuction in Lima. OK, was that consensual liposuction, or were there gangs of thugs wielding vacuum cleaners with sharp pointy attachments? Virtually every entry on Central American countries warned about fake checkpoints, bandits in uniform, soldiers in the middle of nowhere.
Along the roadside are signs with a blood-red eye and the warning <I>vigilantes</I>. We round a corner to find two soldiers walking patrol, miles from the nearest town. They ask for paperwork. A surge of adrenaline turns my mouth to cotton. David, our friend in Ecuador had given us good advice: Act stupid. Smile. We seem to have a natural talent for that. <I>No fumar Espanol</I>. After inspecting our paperwork, they wave us on. In the next few weeks we will be stopped repeatedly, sniffed by dogs, x-rayed, wanded with devices that look like carving knives with car antennas where the blade should be. At border crossings, guys in jumpsuits and facemasks spray our bikes with liquids designed to kill stowaway bugs too lazy to cross borders under their own power. There are soldiers at every gas station, armed attendants at convenience stores and restaurants, guys with shotguns on Pepsi trucks. We are aware of poverty, a culture of criminal opportunity. The night air can strip your bike naked, if you don’t find a hotel with secure parking.
These countries are linked by soil to the United States, and our culture has rattled its way through. Central America is a motorbike culture. Whole families whiz by, perched on narrow seats, wearing helmets with missing visors. In Panama City we run into a group of Harley riders. The bikes have exhausts the size of howitzers, the horns blare a soundtrack of special effects. They surround us, and ask if we want to join their regular weekend burger run. We follow them to an exclusive country club just beyond the Mira Flores locks on the Panama Canal. They send us off with directions to a bed-and-breakfast up the coast. I fall asleep that night in a hammock, a bottle of beer still clutched in my hand, the blades of a fan whirring softly overhead.
Central America has a different feel than Peru and Ecuador, a different gravity. We move through verdant countryside at a speed that would be natural in Virginia or Colorado or California. The vegetation looks like fireworks, only green. Here clusters of one plant have taken over a hillside. There a different species explodes. A slow war.
We have been in the saddle for three weeks. Nothing can break our pace. We abandon the Pan-American Highway and find roads that make it seem like you have two flat tires, ones that seem like you’re riding on an oil spill. There are narrow, one-vehicle-at-a-time bridges of mismatched narrow-gauge rails, or on lesser roads, steel plates tossed across rotting timbers. The terrain is a geological mash-up, without the power of the Andes, but enough unexpected elevation change and tight corners to make for an interesting ride. Towns announce themselves with speed bumps and potholes that can swallow bikes whole. I see road signs unique to the country, silhouettes of odd animals. A snake crossing. A jaguar crossing. In Costa Rica we hit a 30-mile stretch of gravel road, and the world becomes dust. The bikes come alive. We romp, skitter, wander, trusting the gyroscope. I try to read the strange shadows that appear in the dust—bicyclists, ATVs, huge trucks with no lights—not always accurately. There are breaks in the dust cloud when I see fields filled with white cattle and at their feet white egrets. The sky tinges pink with light from a setting sun. A feeling almost like peace.
We spend a night in Arsenal, a destination resort for adrenaline junkies with discretionary income. Posters advertise canopy walks, zipline rides through the rain forest, the chance to rappel down waterfalls, night hikes to lava flows, kayaking, canoeing. We ignore the offers, saddle up and ride into the rain forest. A group of meercats swarms down an embankment onto the road. Monkeys cavort in the trees overhead. A tourist zips by on a steel cable casting a shadow on the road, a blur of color in the sky. It looks like someone was hanging laundry and forgot to take his or her clothes off.
Nicaragua has its own feel. We ride past volcanoes so large they make their own weather, the crowns hidden beneath wide-brimmed clouds. Don Quixote in his barber bowl hat. The streets are clogged with horsedrawn buggies. We find a hotel near the town square. Across the street from the hotel is a shop offering galactic Internet. The traditional culture is slowly losing ground to bandwidth. Relay towers compete with church steeples, billboards for cell service block oversized statues of saints on nearby hilltops.
We visit a bridge, built by Ken’s organization, in a remote area of Honduras. At the turnoff from the main road I think we are entering a drainage ditch. Indeed, during the rainy season the road is impassable, the clay surface too slick for traction. Now, the bikes tackle a road gouged by erosion, working their way around rocks exposed by the force of water. This is by far the most technical riding of the trip.
The 40-mile road will take five hours to cross. The clawmark gullies pull Ken’s bike out from under him; Katie rides into a ditch and smashes her bike’s windscreen. Even Ryan has trouble. The river, when we reach it, is intimidating. I take pictures of the bikes as they come through, pushing a bow wave over front wheels, jouncing up the rocks on the other side. If a trip can be reduced to 1?250th of a second, a single moment seared in memory, these pictures would be it.
We cross into Guatemala, and spend the night with Hemingway impersonators and Jimmy Buffet wannabes in Rio Dulce. The hotel has a wonderful tacky feeling. The overhead fan showers sparks. The power goes off at regular intervals, as does the water. If you want a shower, step outside. We spend a long day riding through rain. The water destroys one of my cameras, turning the LCD into an aquarium. Hey, I have enough pictures.
ALMOST THERE
At the first town over the Mexican border, we stop for directions on a crowded street. A truck sideswipes my bike, snags a sidecase, and drags me down. I’m unhurt, but the windscreen and instrument panel lie in fragments. The police, when they arrive, are the opposite of helpful. We collect the broken bits, duct tape everything in sight, and fire it up. We are unstoppable. We ride on, but the mood of the ride changes and the calendar beckons. Katie, Ryan and Jeff have to be back by a certain date, or they lose their jobs.
The ride becomes time vs. distance, a push that blurs most of Mexico, and a final border crossing into the United States.
We hurtle across long roads, nursing bikes that are showing signs of wear. Ken’s bike is missing a sidestand. Ryan’s helmet a visor. Katie treats her BMW’s busted windscreen like a badge of honor, but still, a 75-mph headwind is exhausting. Jeff’s bike has chewed the rear sprocket to nubbins, the chain is beginning to slip. It will wind up in a U-Haul 100 miles from home.
Five weeks after departing, we see the lights of Newport News. As they enter the city, Ken, Ryan and Katie spread across the road, side by side, arms raised. The long ride is over.
To read more motorcycle tours stories like this or get reviews of the latest bikes and gear, go to ridermagazine.com or pick up a copy of Rider Magazine.
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